Last days

After the glorious visit to Ruaha reality set in as I started a series of goodbyes and prepared for my journey home.

After a farewell dinner with Stan, Barbara, Mama Zenda, Mr. Mwachombe, Allen, Miraji and Lucas I got all packed up and prepared for the 40-odd hour journey back home. My visit was complete with one last stop at Lugalo Friday morning where I got to see new friends one last time. (We decided it wasn't "goodbye" since I would see them all over the Skype in the fall.)

In a strange way I was dreading these last few days in Tanzania. Don't get me wrong, I was feeling content with what I had accomplished during my trip and was very ready to see my family, Saint Stephen's colleagues, and most importantly, Andrew, all of whom I missed very much these past few weeks.

The dread was not coming from a feeling that something would happen to me during the journey back to the States or that I would never have this opportunity again. Never see Tanzania again. Never see my new friends at Lugalo again. No, that wasn't it.

I realized that I had some hard realities to face about the way we live our lives in America. Bear with me as I wax poetic a bit, but I learned that the people I met in Tanzania are happy, proud, peaceful because that's just who they are. They don't have the trappings of high-paying jobs, luxurious homes, the latest cell phone, extravagant vacations. They don't need them, and more importantly, they don't WANT for them. They are driven from some intrinsic value...not tangible items...and come across as being such genuinely GOOD people. Lord knows I could use a bit of that--peel back the layers, get back to basics.

Lots of food for thought over the next few days. As I climbed on the bus and waved goodbye to Stan and Barbara I kept hearing the students of Lugalo singing their school song in my head..have a listen, it's pretty captivating. More later as I recap from stateside!

A magical place...

After the drama of the Internet Library dedication, the mind-blowing experience of seeing the magnificent Image school, and let's face it, a sudden urge for a bit of respite, Barbara, Stan, Mama Zenda and I hit the road Tuesday for our safari in Ruaha National Park. Stan has talked up the Mwagusi Camp like you wouldn't believe and it did not disappoint.

After a three-hour car ride through remote mud-hut villages we arrived at Ruaha's entrance and were transported to yet ANOTHER Africa. Dry, dusty plains dotted with massively regal baobab trees, elegantly filled in with spots of bright green shrubs, all against a seemingly-endless blue sky that ended at grounding mountain ranges. Stunning. Sightings of baboons, giraffes and gazelle rounded out the experience completely.

Mwagusi is a "luxurious roughing it" camp. We were welcomed by the charming Charlotte (the only woman in the camp among 38 employees) and treated to a delicious lunch of gingered beef, fresh salads and homemade bread. After lunch, Barbara and I enjoyed a brief rest in our "tent"--a canvas and stone structure larger than all of my apartments in New York City with elegant furniture, rugs, and a SHOWER. At 4:00 we climbed into a canopy-topped Land Rover (with VERY cushy seats) for a two-hour game drive. Needless to say, it did not disappoint, as we took in sightings of lions (a pride of 25) giraffes, hippos, birds and elephants. And one SPECIAL elephant, a bull who came within three feet of the vehicle. What a charmer.

Back to camp for a quick hot shower, then the group was led to dinner in the dry riverbed. An absolutely beautiful sight with lanterns placed into the bed's walls, fully set table with candles in the middle, and a ring of chairs around a fire which was the perfect place to reflect on the day with a few laughs. THIS I could get used to. Afterwards our guides led us to our rooms and we tucked ourselves in for a cozy night's sleep listening to the leaves rustling and the faint roar of lions in the distance.

Upon setting off for a morning game drive the next day we were told we'd be a bit delayed. Seems as if our elephant friend from yesterday had wandered into camp. We spent the next hour giggling and taking photos as we watched our little friend wander around the dining area, but we were assured by the staff that he wouldn't come in. He was massive and so much fun to watch as he ate all of the bushes by the doors...no need for a gardener here! After another exciting game drive, another fabulous lunch and a snooze in the hammock it was once again time for dinner in the river bed. We told stories and laughed like you wouldn't believe. What a welcome diversion from all of our hard work.

It was hard to leave the beauty of the camp, not just because of its awesome environment, but because leaving Mwagusi was the signal that I would soon be leaving Tanzania. These two days gave me a lot of time to absorb and reflect all that I had seen and experienced over the last two weeks. The ride back was quiet as I looked at a place that has come to mean so much to me in such a short time. The adventure continues in Iringa, so stay tuned!

Here's a video of our elephant friend having a little snack al fresco...

In a village far, far away...

Since my last entry Barbara O'Neil has joined our happy little family. Stan and I welcomed her with open arms Saturday night and she has acclimated to the environment quite quickly.

We all went to Mass on Sunday (more beautiful singing) and then off to see Father John at Kichangani. Also along for the ride was Ally, Stan's new Office Manager for Global Outreach. Ally is finishing up his last year at Tumaini University and will manage the day-to-day operations for the organization. He is a delightful and charming young man and will hopefully do a wonderful job.

Today we traveled to the remote village of Image to to see the local secondary school. After two hours cruising over very bumpy and dusty terrain we arrived at a beautiful scene...over one hundred students singing and dancing backed by stunning mountains and a blue, blue sky. The headmaster, Mr. Ngogo is a delightful man and it's obvious that his teachers and students love him very much. Image started in 2004 but is in a stage of expansion of the facilites, all operated on solar power. They were one of the first schools that Global Outreach worked with and are a role model for others. Now if we can just find a way to give them Internet access...stay tuned on that.

Tomorrow Barbara, Stan Mama Zenda and I are off to Ruaha National Park for a few days of safari, then I depart for the States on Friday, June 13. Hope to give you one more entry before I leave this beautiful place, but if not, I'll be back for a re-cap once I land back in sunny Florida!

What it's all about

Those who know me know that I am very tender-hearted and occasionally shed a few tears. I managed to hold it together my first day here, yes ONE whole day, but each day seems to bring something wonderful (and sometimes heartbreaking) that set the waterworks going. Yesterday was no exception due to the fact it was the culmination of all of the work that has been done for months and months.

As you know from my previous entries, a slight change of plans in the Minister of Education's schedule caused us to shift things around a bit for the dedication, but at long last, the event that we had been waiting for finally arrived. Stan, Miraji and I pulled up to Lugalo a bit before 2:00 to see all of the students and teachers turned out in their best dress with shining faces. When the Minister arrived the children launched into song as the silver Land Rover with Tanzanian flags unfurled made its way to the entrance.

The Minister, Professor Maghembe is very articulate, VERY passionate about education and quick to smile and laugh. We talked in great length about the Web cast transmissions between Saint Stephen's and Lugalo. The students of the Culture Club made a wonderful presentation on all of the topics we covered through the course of the year, and I showed excerpts from the video of yesterday's art class. As we figured, the Minister was quite pleased with our efforts but really wanted to hear from the students themselves. The group's leaders, Nancy and Victoria, and a Form 1 student, Janet, spoke about how this relationship has helped them with their written and spoken English and how they look forward to seeing more of their Saint Stephen's "friends" during our next school year.

After that it was off to another school, Iringa Girls', where the students demonstrated the various computer applications they use in their lab. Our goal is to set Iringa Girls' up with another school in Florida so that they may hold Skype classes, as well.

The Minister was beaming at this point, so off to the dedication we went. As we drove up to the Student Centre we saw hundreds of people gathered outside, singing and dancing and cheering. A roar went over the crowd as the Minister made his way through the receiving line and into the Library.

After an official ribbon-cutting and private demonstration of the Library's capabilities we headed into the assembly room for a series of motivating thank-yous. There was not an empty seat in the house and many tears of joy, me included, as Stan told the group that we are "the viongozi wa viongozi" the leaders of the leaders. I kept thinking to myself, this is what it's all about, this is the future of education in Tanzania, and I can't believe that my presence of God's green earth actually played a bit part here.

We ended the night with a formal dinner at the church hall. Stan and I were seated at the head table with the Minister and other officials while rows and rows of spectators watched us while they held their plates in their laps. (It's a custom in this country but one that I am certainly not used to. A bit like being a zoo animal.)

Angelina and I stayed up late to re-cap the day's events and watch the film "Winged Migration." I fell asleep when my head hit the pillow, no pages of The Audacity of Hope tonight.

Saturday morning the team attended a private breakfast with the Minister to discuss tentative plans for the schools for next year, then Stan and I headed to the office to type up press announcements and answer e-mail. (Everyone works seven days a week here.) My dear friend Barbara will arrive on the bus from Dar later this afternoon, then we will head to our friend Lucas' home for dinner this evening.

More tomorrow, I'm sure...stay tuned! Oh, here's a clip of the Minister dancing after the ceremony...check out those moves!

Spinning the emotional wheel

Life in Tanzania can be very dramatic...lots of ups and downs, and yesterday was the perfect example. We woke to find that our carefully laid plans for the day would have to change due to measures beyond our control. We spent the rest of the morning and afternoon re-arranging things so that our Web cast with Saint Stephen's and the dedication of the Internet Library at Kichangani would go on as planned. Even though everyone here carries an air of control and calmness there is always an underlying tension that crackles through the air.

At a few minutes before 4:00 our students from Lugalo and their teacher Mr. Riaz arrived at the Global Outreach office for the Web cast. They were joined by the Deputy Mayor of Iringa, our friend the Honorable Monica Mbega, the Regional Educational Officer and several representatives from other area schools. As we wedged ourselves in the call was placed to the United States, and within seconds I was looking at the face of my dear friend and head of Saint Stephen's, Jan Pullen.

After a few opening remarks from Stan, Jan and our school's director of technology Dave Snodgress, the mic was turned over to art teacher Leslie DeZiel for an interactive art lesson on the style of M.C Escher.

Chills ran through me as Leslie introduced the biography of the artist then got the kids right to work. The computer's camera was pointed at her hand as she guided the students through a drawing exercise. She would explain and demonstrate a movement, then ask the students to do the same. I felt as if I was watching an art class back home...the conversation was seamless and the students had no problem following along.

At the end of the lesson the students held up their drawings to a round of applause from both sides of the globe. Lelie asked the students if they had any questions, and one of the Form 6 girls, Victoria, asked if she could explain the meaning behind one of the drawings. As I watched this exchange with trembling hands I kept saying to myself, "This is working, this is LEARNING!" Some of the drawings were quite good and the kids seemed to enjoy the lesson. Lugalo has been without an art teacher for several years but many students cartoon in their spare time. What an opportunity for Saint Stephen's to be able to share our resources with them.

As I said goodbye to my friends at home I broke down into tears. It will be good to be back with my colleagues to share all that I have learned and see their smiling faces in person.

That evening Monica invited the whole team to her home for dinner. We shared a fantastic meal of roast chicken, curried vegetables, creamed spinach with peanut sauce, pineapple and banana compote and talked about the recent news that Barack Obama has secured the Democratic party's nomination. Many Tanzanians (students included) are thrilled to know that an individual of East African descent is in the running to be the President of the United States. It is a true testament to the power of education.

This afternoon is the formal dedication of the Internet Library. We are expecting a crowd of 50 for the presentation, including the Minister, a variety of government officials and heads of schools and students from around the Iringa region.

I am putting the final touches on a video to show the Minister (of yesterday's Web cast) as well as checking last-minute details...looking forward to the moment when we cut the ribbon on the future of education in Iringa...stay tuned!

Re-routing

Much of life in Tanzania is spent making plans. Great amounts of time and energy are needed since communication is so loose. The Global Outreach team has been hustling for months to prepare for today's presentation to the Minister of Education and Vocational Training only to learn that the Minister is now not coming...for real, he's not coming. He is attending a funeral. In Tanga, which is very far away. Such is life in Tanzania, as funerals are all too common. We are still planning to go ahead with the Web cast between Saint Stephen's and Lugalo this afternoon, videotaping it to show to the Minister when he comes tomorrow...when he hopefully comes tomorrow, that is.

As they say here, pole sana, very sorry, but that's just the way it is...you spend your time routing and re-routing. Here we are with our friend MP the Honorable Monica Mbega figuring out next steps...I'll keep you posted.

Just another day at the office...

Stress, glitches, problems...these things are universal, no matter your location. For the past day and a half the Global Outreach team (of which now I am an official member) have been scurrying to prepare for the Tanzanian Minister of Education and Vocational Training's visit to Iringa on Thursday and the dedication of the Kichangani Student Center on Friday. I am coming face-to-face with the fact that the little hiccups we experience in the States operate on a much bigger scale here. When the Internet goes down, you lose your primary source of communication with the outside world. When the telephone guys show up to fix the Internet (after cajoling five of your closest Tanzanian friends to call and PLEAD with them to come today, not next week) BOOM, your power has gone out. You run to the power company office and ask for them to fix the problem to learn that someone forgot to pay the bill. And the someone who was supposed to pay the bill is at a funeral in a village far away. That is just another day at the office here.

I have been busy running back and forth between the Global Outreach office and Kichangani pretty much non-stop. Stan and I have manged to finish a Power Point, write his speech for the dedication, check in with the schools participating in Thursday's presentation, give tours of the Internet Library to now-curious members of government in addition to dealing with the day-to-day happenings at home in the States. It has all been worth it...the schools are prepared and happy, the Internet Library is wired and up and ready, government officials smiling from ear-to-ear (ALWAYS a good thing.)

The highlight of Tuesday night was dinner at Angelina's with Nancy and Victoria from Lugalo School. Over vegetable pizza (topped with peas, carrots and corn--whatever!) and ice cream we talked about school, their home lives and their plans for the future. Both will take their final exams this summer and hope to start university in the fall...Nancy to study International Relations and Victoria to focus on Journalism. What bright futures these girls will have!

My Swahili is picking up. I have learned to say "NO" firmly but politely: "hapana." The boys left me alone in the office to work for a bit and pretty soon the neighborhood characters were stopping by to sell me batiks and bananas , show me their wounds (gross) in hopes that I would maybe slip them a little cash. I finally had to shut the door so that I could work uninterrupted...same as at home, I guess!

I am looking forward to seeing my friends at Saint Stephen's on Thursday during our Web transmission at Lugalo. (I miss everyone so much and am sure to start boo-hooing when I see them over the Skype.)

Looking forward to sharing the excitement of the next two days with all of you...stay tuned!