Last days

After the glorious visit to Ruaha reality set in as I started a series of goodbyes and prepared for my journey home.

After a farewell dinner with Stan, Barbara, Mama Zenda, Mr. Mwachombe, Allen, Miraji and Lucas I got all packed up and prepared for the 40-odd hour journey back home. My visit was complete with one last stop at Lugalo Friday morning where I got to see new friends one last time. (We decided it wasn't "goodbye" since I would see them all over the Skype in the fall.)

In a strange way I was dreading these last few days in Tanzania. Don't get me wrong, I was feeling content with what I had accomplished during my trip and was very ready to see my family, Saint Stephen's colleagues, and most importantly, Andrew, all of whom I missed very much these past few weeks.

The dread was not coming from a feeling that something would happen to me during the journey back to the States or that I would never have this opportunity again. Never see Tanzania again. Never see my new friends at Lugalo again. No, that wasn't it.

I realized that I had some hard realities to face about the way we live our lives in America. Bear with me as I wax poetic a bit, but I learned that the people I met in Tanzania are happy, proud, peaceful because that's just who they are. They don't have the trappings of high-paying jobs, luxurious homes, the latest cell phone, extravagant vacations. They don't need them, and more importantly, they don't WANT for them. They are driven from some intrinsic value...not tangible items...and come across as being such genuinely GOOD people. Lord knows I could use a bit of that--peel back the layers, get back to basics.

Lots of food for thought over the next few days. As I climbed on the bus and waved goodbye to Stan and Barbara I kept hearing the students of Lugalo singing their school song in my head..have a listen, it's pretty captivating. More later as I recap from stateside!

A magical place...

After the drama of the Internet Library dedication, the mind-blowing experience of seeing the magnificent Image school, and let's face it, a sudden urge for a bit of respite, Barbara, Stan, Mama Zenda and I hit the road Tuesday for our safari in Ruaha National Park. Stan has talked up the Mwagusi Camp like you wouldn't believe and it did not disappoint.

After a three-hour car ride through remote mud-hut villages we arrived at Ruaha's entrance and were transported to yet ANOTHER Africa. Dry, dusty plains dotted with massively regal baobab trees, elegantly filled in with spots of bright green shrubs, all against a seemingly-endless blue sky that ended at grounding mountain ranges. Stunning. Sightings of baboons, giraffes and gazelle rounded out the experience completely.

Mwagusi is a "luxurious roughing it" camp. We were welcomed by the charming Charlotte (the only woman in the camp among 38 employees) and treated to a delicious lunch of gingered beef, fresh salads and homemade bread. After lunch, Barbara and I enjoyed a brief rest in our "tent"--a canvas and stone structure larger than all of my apartments in New York City with elegant furniture, rugs, and a SHOWER. At 4:00 we climbed into a canopy-topped Land Rover (with VERY cushy seats) for a two-hour game drive. Needless to say, it did not disappoint, as we took in sightings of lions (a pride of 25) giraffes, hippos, birds and elephants. And one SPECIAL elephant, a bull who came within three feet of the vehicle. What a charmer.

Back to camp for a quick hot shower, then the group was led to dinner in the dry riverbed. An absolutely beautiful sight with lanterns placed into the bed's walls, fully set table with candles in the middle, and a ring of chairs around a fire which was the perfect place to reflect on the day with a few laughs. THIS I could get used to. Afterwards our guides led us to our rooms and we tucked ourselves in for a cozy night's sleep listening to the leaves rustling and the faint roar of lions in the distance.

Upon setting off for a morning game drive the next day we were told we'd be a bit delayed. Seems as if our elephant friend from yesterday had wandered into camp. We spent the next hour giggling and taking photos as we watched our little friend wander around the dining area, but we were assured by the staff that he wouldn't come in. He was massive and so much fun to watch as he ate all of the bushes by the doors...no need for a gardener here! After another exciting game drive, another fabulous lunch and a snooze in the hammock it was once again time for dinner in the river bed. We told stories and laughed like you wouldn't believe. What a welcome diversion from all of our hard work.

It was hard to leave the beauty of the camp, not just because of its awesome environment, but because leaving Mwagusi was the signal that I would soon be leaving Tanzania. These two days gave me a lot of time to absorb and reflect all that I had seen and experienced over the last two weeks. The ride back was quiet as I looked at a place that has come to mean so much to me in such a short time. The adventure continues in Iringa, so stay tuned!

Here's a video of our elephant friend having a little snack al fresco...

In a village far, far away...

Since my last entry Barbara O'Neil has joined our happy little family. Stan and I welcomed her with open arms Saturday night and she has acclimated to the environment quite quickly.

We all went to Mass on Sunday (more beautiful singing) and then off to see Father John at Kichangani. Also along for the ride was Ally, Stan's new Office Manager for Global Outreach. Ally is finishing up his last year at Tumaini University and will manage the day-to-day operations for the organization. He is a delightful and charming young man and will hopefully do a wonderful job.

Today we traveled to the remote village of Image to to see the local secondary school. After two hours cruising over very bumpy and dusty terrain we arrived at a beautiful scene...over one hundred students singing and dancing backed by stunning mountains and a blue, blue sky. The headmaster, Mr. Ngogo is a delightful man and it's obvious that his teachers and students love him very much. Image started in 2004 but is in a stage of expansion of the facilites, all operated on solar power. They were one of the first schools that Global Outreach worked with and are a role model for others. Now if we can just find a way to give them Internet access...stay tuned on that.

Tomorrow Barbara, Stan Mama Zenda and I are off to Ruaha National Park for a few days of safari, then I depart for the States on Friday, June 13. Hope to give you one more entry before I leave this beautiful place, but if not, I'll be back for a re-cap once I land back in sunny Florida!

What it's all about

Those who know me know that I am very tender-hearted and occasionally shed a few tears. I managed to hold it together my first day here, yes ONE whole day, but each day seems to bring something wonderful (and sometimes heartbreaking) that set the waterworks going. Yesterday was no exception due to the fact it was the culmination of all of the work that has been done for months and months.

As you know from my previous entries, a slight change of plans in the Minister of Education's schedule caused us to shift things around a bit for the dedication, but at long last, the event that we had been waiting for finally arrived. Stan, Miraji and I pulled up to Lugalo a bit before 2:00 to see all of the students and teachers turned out in their best dress with shining faces. When the Minister arrived the children launched into song as the silver Land Rover with Tanzanian flags unfurled made its way to the entrance.

The Minister, Professor Maghembe is very articulate, VERY passionate about education and quick to smile and laugh. We talked in great length about the Web cast transmissions between Saint Stephen's and Lugalo. The students of the Culture Club made a wonderful presentation on all of the topics we covered through the course of the year, and I showed excerpts from the video of yesterday's art class. As we figured, the Minister was quite pleased with our efforts but really wanted to hear from the students themselves. The group's leaders, Nancy and Victoria, and a Form 1 student, Janet, spoke about how this relationship has helped them with their written and spoken English and how they look forward to seeing more of their Saint Stephen's "friends" during our next school year.

After that it was off to another school, Iringa Girls', where the students demonstrated the various computer applications they use in their lab. Our goal is to set Iringa Girls' up with another school in Florida so that they may hold Skype classes, as well.

The Minister was beaming at this point, so off to the dedication we went. As we drove up to the Student Centre we saw hundreds of people gathered outside, singing and dancing and cheering. A roar went over the crowd as the Minister made his way through the receiving line and into the Library.

After an official ribbon-cutting and private demonstration of the Library's capabilities we headed into the assembly room for a series of motivating thank-yous. There was not an empty seat in the house and many tears of joy, me included, as Stan told the group that we are "the viongozi wa viongozi" the leaders of the leaders. I kept thinking to myself, this is what it's all about, this is the future of education in Tanzania, and I can't believe that my presence of God's green earth actually played a bit part here.

We ended the night with a formal dinner at the church hall. Stan and I were seated at the head table with the Minister and other officials while rows and rows of spectators watched us while they held their plates in their laps. (It's a custom in this country but one that I am certainly not used to. A bit like being a zoo animal.)

Angelina and I stayed up late to re-cap the day's events and watch the film "Winged Migration." I fell asleep when my head hit the pillow, no pages of The Audacity of Hope tonight.

Saturday morning the team attended a private breakfast with the Minister to discuss tentative plans for the schools for next year, then Stan and I headed to the office to type up press announcements and answer e-mail. (Everyone works seven days a week here.) My dear friend Barbara will arrive on the bus from Dar later this afternoon, then we will head to our friend Lucas' home for dinner this evening.

More tomorrow, I'm sure...stay tuned! Oh, here's a clip of the Minister dancing after the ceremony...check out those moves!

Spinning the emotional wheel

Life in Tanzania can be very dramatic...lots of ups and downs, and yesterday was the perfect example. We woke to find that our carefully laid plans for the day would have to change due to measures beyond our control. We spent the rest of the morning and afternoon re-arranging things so that our Web cast with Saint Stephen's and the dedication of the Internet Library at Kichangani would go on as planned. Even though everyone here carries an air of control and calmness there is always an underlying tension that crackles through the air.

At a few minutes before 4:00 our students from Lugalo and their teacher Mr. Riaz arrived at the Global Outreach office for the Web cast. They were joined by the Deputy Mayor of Iringa, our friend the Honorable Monica Mbega, the Regional Educational Officer and several representatives from other area schools. As we wedged ourselves in the call was placed to the United States, and within seconds I was looking at the face of my dear friend and head of Saint Stephen's, Jan Pullen.

After a few opening remarks from Stan, Jan and our school's director of technology Dave Snodgress, the mic was turned over to art teacher Leslie DeZiel for an interactive art lesson on the style of M.C Escher.

Chills ran through me as Leslie introduced the biography of the artist then got the kids right to work. The computer's camera was pointed at her hand as she guided the students through a drawing exercise. She would explain and demonstrate a movement, then ask the students to do the same. I felt as if I was watching an art class back home...the conversation was seamless and the students had no problem following along.

At the end of the lesson the students held up their drawings to a round of applause from both sides of the globe. Lelie asked the students if they had any questions, and one of the Form 6 girls, Victoria, asked if she could explain the meaning behind one of the drawings. As I watched this exchange with trembling hands I kept saying to myself, "This is working, this is LEARNING!" Some of the drawings were quite good and the kids seemed to enjoy the lesson. Lugalo has been without an art teacher for several years but many students cartoon in their spare time. What an opportunity for Saint Stephen's to be able to share our resources with them.

As I said goodbye to my friends at home I broke down into tears. It will be good to be back with my colleagues to share all that I have learned and see their smiling faces in person.

That evening Monica invited the whole team to her home for dinner. We shared a fantastic meal of roast chicken, curried vegetables, creamed spinach with peanut sauce, pineapple and banana compote and talked about the recent news that Barack Obama has secured the Democratic party's nomination. Many Tanzanians (students included) are thrilled to know that an individual of East African descent is in the running to be the President of the United States. It is a true testament to the power of education.

This afternoon is the formal dedication of the Internet Library. We are expecting a crowd of 50 for the presentation, including the Minister, a variety of government officials and heads of schools and students from around the Iringa region.

I am putting the final touches on a video to show the Minister (of yesterday's Web cast) as well as checking last-minute details...looking forward to the moment when we cut the ribbon on the future of education in Iringa...stay tuned!

Re-routing

Much of life in Tanzania is spent making plans. Great amounts of time and energy are needed since communication is so loose. The Global Outreach team has been hustling for months to prepare for today's presentation to the Minister of Education and Vocational Training only to learn that the Minister is now not coming...for real, he's not coming. He is attending a funeral. In Tanga, which is very far away. Such is life in Tanzania, as funerals are all too common. We are still planning to go ahead with the Web cast between Saint Stephen's and Lugalo this afternoon, videotaping it to show to the Minister when he comes tomorrow...when he hopefully comes tomorrow, that is.

As they say here, pole sana, very sorry, but that's just the way it is...you spend your time routing and re-routing. Here we are with our friend MP the Honorable Monica Mbega figuring out next steps...I'll keep you posted.

Just another day at the office...

Stress, glitches, problems...these things are universal, no matter your location. For the past day and a half the Global Outreach team (of which now I am an official member) have been scurrying to prepare for the Tanzanian Minister of Education and Vocational Training's visit to Iringa on Thursday and the dedication of the Kichangani Student Center on Friday. I am coming face-to-face with the fact that the little hiccups we experience in the States operate on a much bigger scale here. When the Internet goes down, you lose your primary source of communication with the outside world. When the telephone guys show up to fix the Internet (after cajoling five of your closest Tanzanian friends to call and PLEAD with them to come today, not next week) BOOM, your power has gone out. You run to the power company office and ask for them to fix the problem to learn that someone forgot to pay the bill. And the someone who was supposed to pay the bill is at a funeral in a village far away. That is just another day at the office here.

I have been busy running back and forth between the Global Outreach office and Kichangani pretty much non-stop. Stan and I have manged to finish a Power Point, write his speech for the dedication, check in with the schools participating in Thursday's presentation, give tours of the Internet Library to now-curious members of government in addition to dealing with the day-to-day happenings at home in the States. It has all been worth it...the schools are prepared and happy, the Internet Library is wired and up and ready, government officials smiling from ear-to-ear (ALWAYS a good thing.)

The highlight of Tuesday night was dinner at Angelina's with Nancy and Victoria from Lugalo School. Over vegetable pizza (topped with peas, carrots and corn--whatever!) and ice cream we talked about school, their home lives and their plans for the future. Both will take their final exams this summer and hope to start university in the fall...Nancy to study International Relations and Victoria to focus on Journalism. What bright futures these girls will have!

My Swahili is picking up. I have learned to say "NO" firmly but politely: "hapana." The boys left me alone in the office to work for a bit and pretty soon the neighborhood characters were stopping by to sell me batiks and bananas , show me their wounds (gross) in hopes that I would maybe slip them a little cash. I finally had to shut the door so that I could work uninterrupted...same as at home, I guess!

I am looking forward to seeing my friends at Saint Stephen's on Thursday during our Web transmission at Lugalo. (I miss everyone so much and am sure to start boo-hooing when I see them over the Skype.)

Looking forward to sharing the excitement of the next two days with all of you...stay tuned!

Chalk and talk, Tanzania style

Monday morning was crisp and sunny as I met my friends at Lugalo School during their daily 7:30 am assembly. (Most of the school is on break this week except for the Form 5 and Form 6 students.) After the students sang their school song and listened to announcements I was off to the classroom with the Second Headmaster Mr. Kanyama. My charge for the morning was to conduct a lesson for a Form 5 class on idioms and proverbs. (I had let it slip that I used to teach while in NYC so my new Tanzanian friends took the opportunity to get me back in front of the chalkboard.) My demonstrative and interactive teaching style was quite different from what the students were used to (I think that many teachers here sit while teaching) but I had them out of their seats, writing on the chalkboard, working in groups, presenting in front of their peers and most of all, LAUGHING while learning. Surprisingly enough I did not have as much trouble managing this class of 64 as I had thought. The were all enthusiastic, attentive and cooperative.

During a mid-morning tea break with a few of the teachers we talked about common issues of how to motivate our students, how to discipline positively (and legally) and ways in which to keep your sanity while working with classes of 70-80 students...quite a challenge. In the afternoon I took a tour of the facilities. I was surprised to learn that Lugalo has a sustainable agriculture program on campus, raising tilapia in four fish farms and growing their own vegetables--definitely something we could learn from in the States! The high point was the hour and a half spent with the 12 students involved in our Web transmissions. They were full of questions about America and Saint Stephen's and had very helpful suggestions on how to improve our program next year.

After a quick visit up to Tumaini University to visit our friend Lucas Mwahombela the rest of the afternoon was spent with the Bishop of the Catholic Diocese. He has been instrumental in the support of the new Internet Library of the Kichangani Student Center and is making great strides to support the mission of Global Outreach. I look forward to a continued relationship with this kind and gentle man as we move forward with my Bradenton Rotary Club's sponsorship of a Computer Library at the center.

Another lovely end to the day with Angelina as we shared chocolate and talked about our families. Although I am getting acclimated in my new surrounding I realized I miss my loved ones and wish they were with me to share this incredible adventure. More tomorrow...stay tuned!

Homecoming

Sundays in Iringa revolve around church…it’s a big deal. Stan told me that there would be a special Mass at the Catholic Church this morning because the Bishop was visiting. The Bishop actually lives in town so it was really more of a guest appearance, but a big deal just the same. This Mass would be in Swahili and Stan thought I would enjoy it because the singing is magnificent and Angelina would be one of the featured speakers.

The Mass was beautiful and the singing unlike anything I’d ever heard—truly breathtaking. Angelina’s talk earned a warm round of applause—wish I knew what she said. Unfortunately, the Mass was a little on the LONG side, three-and-a-half hours to be exact. We took photos of some of the children afterwards and laughed about how we had earned our spots in heaven.

From the church we walked over to the Kichangani Student Center to check on the progress of the Internet Library and Stan’s new Global Outreach office. The office is coming along much quicker than anticipated; in fact, the electrician was finishing up his work today.

In the afternoon we went over to the Lugalo Secondary School which is the school Saint Stephen’s has been holding Web cam transmissions with over the course of the year. I was excited to see the school and finally meet the headmaster, teachers and students in person.

This turned out to be no “pop in.” When we pulled up in front we were met by a group of smiling faces singing songs of welcome. After shaking hands with all of these familiar faces (so cool to see them in person!) I was presented with a traditional Katanga of the Masai tribe along with a beautiful necklace and bracelet representing the Tanzanian flag. Stan was given a special shirt adorned with photos of Tanzanian animals. I was led to Headmaster Francis Mwachombe’s office and signed the official guest book, then off to a surprise celebration in honor of Saint Stephen’s. We were entertained by songs and endearing speeches by students and teachers and during a delicious meal of roast chicken, somosas and baked bananas I had the chance to move from table to table to chat with everyone in attendance. Over and over I heard how much the relationship with Saint Stephen’s had meant to this community, how it gave them a glimpse into the opportunities that lie in their futures. I am not one to cry, but caught myself on the edge of tears during several moments. I cannot remember a time when I felt so safe and warm and loved by people I had just met. When the students asked how I was feeling, I told that I felt as if I was “home,” which gave way to a huge round of applause.

As a write this up I have just spent an hour with Angelina and Stan eating chocolates and recounting the day. I think back to the comments made by my seatmate on the plane from Amsterdam to Dar, that Tanzania is a magical place.

The Journey, Part II

I have to admit, the eight-hour bus trip to Iringa was the part of my journey I was dreading the most. Stan had described it as “brutal”—crowded, hot, bumpy and breakneck speeds. The bus station was pure chaos—people shouting, buses rushing in and out, dust, food and flies everywhere. I turned into a nervous wreck as we waited. What if I got on the wrong bus? What if I got car sick and threw up? What if I get left at one of the rest stops? (And as I am slowly learning, my Swahili is terrible, so that would be really bad.)

Thankfully Allen had planned to take to bus back to Iringa with me. He took good care of his charge, managing to distract me from the fact that we were speeding along a rather narrow and bumpy road, passing big trucks along hairpin curves. While I snapped photos out the window Allen read my copy of The New Yorker and listened to my i-pod. (He is now very “up” on American culture.)

The rest stops are hilarious. You pull up and all of a sudden there are young men shoving bags of cashews, bottled water and roasted corn in the window for you to purchase, hands furiously exchanging goods and money. (If none of those things strike your fancy you can also find oranges, pineapples or big bottles of bright orange Fanta. Or a few baskets. Total hodgepodge.) Stops are quick, maybe all of ten minutes, and then the driver impatiently honks his horn to climb back on board with no head count to see if anyone is missing. The bright spot was the bus driver’s little girl—she let me swoop her off the stairs during our stops with a big flourish.

As we edged closer to Iringa the topography changed to lush, green mountains dotted with cashew and banana trees. Every now and then you’d see a perfect little thatched roof hut peeking out of the foliage. As Stan had promised, we had sightings of giraffes, elephants and yes, baboons.

I was relieved and excited to arrive in Iringa and see Stan waiting for us at the bus stop. After months of talking about and planning for this trip, I had finally made it. And I didn’t get lost along the way, or more importantly, throw up.

Stan and I met up with our hostess Angelina over dinner (I had something called “chicken karma”—quite delicious) where we laughed about my journey and talked about schools, politics and the silly songs we sing during Rotary meetings. Lights out under a mosquito net in my cozy room in Angelina’s lovely flat. Tomorrow, another adventure!

The Journey, Part I

I feel as if I have lived a lifetime these past 25 hours. My flights were all seamless—Sarasota to Atlanta, Atlanta to Amsterdam, then finally on to Dar es Salaam. I met so many interesting people along the way—a Baptist youth group from Atlanta heading to Nairobi to help build orphanages, a group of seniors from Harvard University going to Arusha to run a conference for teenage girls. It seemed everyone had been to Africa before, and for some, this was their third or fourth trip. When asked where I was headed one woman’s eyes lit up when I said “Tanzania.” “Oh!” she exclaimed, “you are SO lucky to have Tanzania as your introduction to Africa…it’s magical.”

“Magic” to me was FINALLY being able to take a break from flying, collect my bags (which all made it, amen) and find my smiling Tanzanian friend Allen and his sister Janet waiting for me outside of customs. We whizzed over some very bumpy roads to my home for the night, the Blue Pearl Hotel.

At around midnight I dragged my weary bones to my room, brushed my teeth and fell into a deep and much-needed sleep

You know you are close when you see the baboons...

Today is my last day to pull things together before my departure tomorrow. Anyone who travels for extended periods of time knows the drill...go through that dog-eared check list one more time, shop in a frenzy for the last-minute items that seem to always escape you, and last but not least, PACK. I managed to fit two weeks worth of clothing, video camera with accessories and a various assortment of first aid items into a respectable-sized wheelie bag. Respectable in size, but totally unrealistic in weight. I am sure that the airline representatives will give me one of those -are you kidding me?- looks. My other accessory is one of those plastic footlockers that bring back memories of summer sleep-away camp. Mine is chock-full of gifts for the children in Iringa--t-shirts, colored pencils and art paper, as well as a hefty supply of granola bars and chocolate. After all, chocolate is the international symbol of friendship.

Over the past week Stan has been sending me daily e-mails with updates on what is going on in Iringa, how the weather is, etc. His message this morning completely cracked me up, though. He explained that one of his Global Outreach colleagues would meet me at the airport in Dar es Salaam, transport me to the hotel, and make sure that I get on the bus the next morning for the eight-hour journey to Iringa. Stan went into great detail about things to look for along the way...landscapes, trees, towns, etc. His final words to me where that once I see the baboons in the mountains I will know that I am very close to my final destination...what a landmark!

I am aiming to be back on line when I land in Iringa June 1. Speak with you all then!

Just one more week to go!

Hello to all!
My name is Paula Heap and I work as the Director of Communications for Saint Stephen's Episcopal School in Bradenton, Florida. Since 2004 my school has partnered with an organization called Global Outreach whose mission is to bring computer literacy to the students of Tanzania. This past year our school has enjoyed weekly Webcam transmissions with the Lugalo Secondary School in the town of Iringa, discussing books and current events, sharing stories of culture and home life, down to the "likes and dislikes" common amongst all teenagers.

But now, the time has come to cross the "digital divide" (and a few time zones) and meet our Tanzanian friends in person. On May 29 I will set out from Sarasota on a two-week journey to the town of Iringa where I will be able to greet the students and teachers of Lugalo with a hearty "jambo," Swahili for hello, and start a series of talks to see what the future holds for our partnership.

Global Outreach's founder, Stan Muessle, has been in-country for the past month and is ready to "put me to work" when I arrive. I will be joined on June 5 by my colleague and friend Barbara O'Neil who will be working with the Lugalo teachers to incorporate technology into their lessons.

For months it seemed as if my departure would never arrive, and now, it's just one week away. Stay tuned!

You can find out more information about Global Outreach here.